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SEA Currents: SSV Corwith Cramer

October 18, 2015


Margaux Burnham, University of Massachusetts Amherst

The Global Ocean: Europe

The view from the top of the tower at the Cadiz Cathedral

Ship's Log

Cadiz, Spain

Rain, rain, rain

Souls on Board

My first text message yesterday as we stepped off the boat and onto dry land: “LAND, SWEET LAND!!” If I had a smidge less dignity I would have knelt and kissed the ground we walked on. At approximately 1330, we officially arrived in Cadiz and felt something solid beneath our feet for the first time in over a week.

All at once, the past 11 days became a blur. I remember that each day of our voyage from Mallorca passed slowly, filled with rotating watch schedules, naps (“ a good nights sleep” has become an illusive term around here) and the constant motion of the sea that continuously and shockingly reminds me that it is alive. I remember that sometimes at lookout the minutes between 0400 and 0500 seemed to just tick by, particularly when the smell of bacon would waft through the galley hatch and fill my head with visions of breakfast and warm blankets. These moments condensed into snippets of memory as we left the familiarity of the Cramer and began to explore our new surroundings.

As Sara previously mentioned, our first afternoon was spent exploring the Old City of Cadiz by ourselves. The weather was oddly reminiscent of my hometown in New England, jumping from sweltering hot to chilling rain hour by hour. To all the mothers reading, don’t worry we had plenty of layers, did not talk to strangers and did not cross any streets without looking both ways. I also had the pleasure of trying churros con chocolate for the first time and for those of you who are wondering, no they are nothing like the churros found at the cafeteria in Costco.

This morning we intrepidly set off on a walking tour of the Old City with Craig. While Cadiz at 0930 on a Sunday morning, off-season, in the rain, cannot be described as a bustling place, we were offered the rare opportunity of solitude that not many tour groups experience. We navigated the cobblestone streets without being jostled by strangers. Although we were disappointed by the boarded up shops and closed markets, the silence made it feel as though the city was our own to discover.

Our stops included the Museum of the Cortes, dedicated to the creation of the Constitution of 1812 which, for a time, cemented Cadiz’s status as a center of Spanish government, and the Museum of Cadiz which contained countless artifacts and artwork celebrating the ctiy’s Phoenican past. After a quick break for lunch and a small detour spent watching three women dressed as nuns perform what appeared to be a comedy routine and/or slam poetry in the middle of a plaza,  we continued on to the Cathedral of Cadiz and the Oratory of Santa Cueva. Both of these buildings held breathtaking sanctuaries that curated an incredible sense of peace as our group settled into the respective pews and gazed at both the art and architecture that decorated these buildings. We also got the chance to climb to the top of one of the towers in the Cadiz Cathedral which provided an expansive view of the entire city. Definitely worth the steep, winding stone path that was less than comfortable for those of us who haven’t had a chance to get our workout in these past three weeks.

Unforunately, the rain did not let up in the afternoon, leading many of us to forgo all sartorial sense and curse ourselves for not bringing our bright orange and yellow foul weather gear. However, the unique walking tour and a few hours of freedom decidedly made this day a very good day.

- Margaux

P.S. Lots of love to my favorite people: KBB, STB, JCB, SBB and ACSF, xoxo and sys!

Categories: Corwith Cramer,The Global Ocean: Europe, • Topics: c262  port stops  spain • (1) Comments
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Leave a public comment for students and crew to read when they reach their next port and have access to the internet!

#1. Posted by Krysia Burnham on October 29, 2015

Ahhhh! I just discovered this post! For some reason I’ve been pulling up only older posts so just saw this, and the most recent ones. (Will bookmark the page.) So cool! Now I"ll catch up and read, read, read. Can’t wait to hear all about Madeira! Lots of love, MOM! xoxoxoxo’s to you and the mates



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